Current Location: Apartment, San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua


Price of beer in a bar: The US$0.69 and roughly 12 ounce bottles of Brahva get slightly edged out by the US$1.85 liter (roughly 34 ounce) bottles of Tona that I’m uncovering more of now that we’ve been here for a while.  I bought 750ml of cheap rum a couple of weeks ago for the same price, US$1.85.  In the past, the only way to get rum that cheap has been to pay some guy at a festival with a used bucket (look for a bucket that used to house something like lard and not brake fluid) to scoop you out a mug’s worth.
Song currently stuck in my head: Lover’s Day (TV on the Radio), off of a favorite album that I listened to the other day after hearing one of the tracks in an episode of Breaking Bad.

While we’ve only seen one roach so far in this apartment, we do have another nuisance plaguing us at home: kids with fireworks on the street below. I have mixed feelings about it, philosophically.  It combines the typically Central American recklessness that I love with the equally emblematic penchant for deafening sounds that I find irritating.  Sooner or later these kids are going to end up with fewer fingers than my Great Uncle Mike and I’ll be relieved to hear the screams.  Its not that I’ll revel in their pain or that I wish them any harm at all, I’ll just know that they signal a (temporary?) respite from the constant succession of gunpowder explosions outside my window and, to be honest, such an end seems inevitable.  I’m more tense expecting to hear the screams than the explosives.  They seem to be scrambling to find any random discarded object to stuff a firecracker into, so the end can’t be far off; is going to send some self-made shrapnel their way or into the path of a unforgiving passer-by. Also, their fuses regularly go out, sending them right back in with a lighter in hand.  I got the impression that the guesthouse owners across the street might even have attempted to intervene; it’s unclear if these kids are doing this all surreptitiously or with the full permission of their parents.

The Girlfriend and I finally made it up to some of the more amenity rich levels of Pelican Eyes Resort over the weekend. Previously we’d only reached the first pool, as it’s literally an uphill climb, and the larger pool complex is near the top. It’s beautiful.

We’ve made the local Farmer’s Market, now hosted at Big Wave Dave’s (longstanding expat central), a recurring weekly appointment. The produce is better and cheaper than most of the stuff in the central market (which is rumored to be why Dave is selling it, to undercut what he considers overpriced goods). We picked up some mixed greens, pea pods, onions, tomatoes, bell peppers, a half pound of smoked pork shoulder and two frozen chicken pot pies, all in for US$16.57, and had a mixed green salad with eggs and shredded pork for lunch yesterday. The Girlfriend keeps fashioning salad dressings in each town and I have no idea what she’s been using, but they’re dependably good, sometimes great and seem to be crafted from thin air.  Neither of us are big mayo fans, though you have to argue heatedly to receive food in this region without it (a polite “sin mayonaise, por favor” has never, ever worked and we’ve tried it about 12 brazilian times in about 12 countries), but a well prepared mayo based sauce on a chicken sandwich the other day may prove to be the inevitable epiphany that’s we’ve been avoiding for years, sauce wise. We’ll see.


2 Responses to “Current Location: Apartment, San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua”

  1. Maritt van Trooijen Says:

    I am sorry to bother you and realize this blog is a bit older so you might not remember. I came to your blog while searching the Internet to rent an apartment in Nicaragua (San Juan del Sur) for 3 weeks and wondered how you found yours. I hope you can help me in my search.

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