Current location: Apartment, San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua


Price of beer in a bar: it’s official, Brahva, the Brazillian answer to Miller Lite, is available at a popular local bar for US$0.69.  Here’s its advertised as “C$15”, so no double entendres are employed.
Song currently stuck in my head: Heartbreaker’s Beach Party (Tom Petty and The Heartbreakers).  Seriously.

The local rums are only 70 proof, so unless you happened to have a 1.14 ounce shot glass, you have to make every 7th shot a double if you want to draw from past experiences for guidance. Obviously this applies to cocktails as well. Speaking of local rum, Plata Lite (what is it with pale booze? It’s “light”, with a G, an H and only one vowel) is the only liquor that I can recall that tastes worse as you shoot more of it. It starts out okay, I mean it’s better than Bacardi Light (yeah, their rum tastes like astringent, but at least they can spell), but by the second round you’re noticing a less fluid slide and beyond that you’re bracing yourself. You may wonder why, with some of the world’s best rum available for less than US$8 a fifth, I would even know what Plata tastes like. That’s easy… because I’m cheap, it’s US$2.69 and I honestly think The Girlfriend prefers it.

We made our way from Esteli to this surfers’ paradise by way of 3 buses and 2 taxis. We took the first taxi to the Contran Sur bus station in Esteli, then a 2ish hour bus to The Mayoreo Bus Station in Managua, a quick cab ride to The Huembes Bus Station (also Managua), then a bus that we were told (repeatedly and by many people) was going to San Juan Del Sur (SJDS) but was, in reality, going 1.5ish hours to Rivas, the last town on the Inter-Americana Highway before the SJDS turnoff. From there we jumped on a waiting bus the rest of the way, setting up for a few days at Rebecca’s Guesthouse on arrival (by the park, recommended, no apparent website).

We arrived with a few apartment leads and scouted out several more within a day; a handful of places were unavailable for the full 30 days due to existing reservations for December, but it wasn’t hard to find our winner.  We responded to a hand-scribbled poster board sign beside a hardware store and now we’re living near the beach (you can hear the surf) in a comfortable  two bedroom place.  It’s Day 7 and I have yet to see a roach.  The extra bedroom is nice but unnecessary and had they offered us a one bedroom option for less we probably would have taken it.

Our agenda in this town includes beach exploration and surf education, at times simultaneously, and tonight we might be heading to a hog roast on a beach just North of here; we met Mark at the market yesterday and had seen signs all week for the event .  I’m not sure what to expect, but I’ll report on what I find if the rain holds off.  The local expat community is strong in both numbers and personality, and I hope to find both on display tonight.  And if you happen to have a 1.14 (or, better yet, 1.71) ounce shot glass, please send it on.


4 Responses to “Current location: Apartment, San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua”

  1. A Lee Says:

    I’d like two metric shots, please.

  2. Linda Says:

    Hi, we really enjoy your commentary and the updates of your travels. We checked out Casa Pelon and wondered if you could tell us a bit more about the accommodation. Are they separate cabanas? or rooms in a house? It looks amazing, hopefully we will make it down there in our travels!

    Thanks, Linda & Barry

  3. cgearhart Says:

    Hey Linda, glad to hear you enjoy the updates. It’s a single guesthouse with separate rooms. To my taste, the beach is pretty incredible; it’s tough to do it justice in pictures or words. I’m sure Mark, the proprietor, can fill you in further (mark@casapelon.com). Let us know if you decide to come to town.

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