Current Location: Mango Cafe, Utila, Bay Islands, Honduras


Price of beer in a bar: US$1.32 to US$1.85, depending on where and when
Song currently stuck in my head: Twin Peaks Theme, by Angelo Badalamenti. You can’t imagine how sedately unsettling and downright bewildering it is to hear this getting pushed out of a bar on the dim main street of Utila Town, 50 feet from the lapping waves of the Caribbean. After the 4th time you begin to look forward to it.

The Girlfriend can’t dive. It’s a long story with the potential to have gone horribly awry. The short version is that Dr. John, the eccentric but respected local doctor and dive specialist, diagnosed an inner ear issue that, had she dove, may have left her shouting “CAN YOU SPEAK INTO MY GOOD EAR?” for the rest of her life. He advised her that there were plenty of other activities on the island (“drinking, drinking, partying… oh, and drinking”) and told her that the decision was ultimately hers. For now she’s playing it safe.

With no possibility of hanging out underwater for an hour at a time, we decided to rent some bicycles and tour around the road-accessible areas of the island. It only took us about 3 hours to canvas the majority of that area, but we got to sea undeveloped coasts and bounce our asses sore down chunky coral “paved” streets. The whole island is coral and volcanic rock with a thin-to-moderate layer of topsoil and an occasional smattering of sand. The Pumpkin Hill area is as fantasy fueling as ever and I continue to keep a loose eye on the property costs out there.

It was nice to get some exercise, by the way. I had my hopes set on lifting at “Island Fitness”, a first rate small gym here on the island, as Placencia was devoid of even a bar with two chunks of cement on it. But alas, Island Fitness is one of the few business that seems to have folded entirely in my absence. I still hold out hope that Nicaragua will be full of weight rooms. I’ve lost about 20 pounds (assuming the one scale that we’ve encountered was accurate) since my heaviest weight of the past year, due both the local diet and the hunger obliterating power of intense heat and absurd humidity. It would be nice to put some muscle back on while I’m this lean.

We’re in for a bit of tropical depression that could go “cyclone” in the next couple of days.  I’m not sure what that means, but I’ll be asking around.  We’ll be scheduling our snorkeling before it and our kayak trip after (interesting stuff tends to get uncovered/washed up here after big storms).


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